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I took a small airplane directly from Tana, only an hour flight (compared to an 18 hour drive!!). Since the flight course was directly over my exploration permit, I asked the pilot which side of the plane I should sit on to get the best view. He then invited me to join him in the cockpit, a very small cockpit, I might add, and once, when I leaned over to get a good aerial shot, my shoulder brushed some buttons, causing one of the hydraulic pumps to malfunction, but they laughed and passed me a cup of coke with ice, which could have easily spilled all over the switchboard. When we reached my region, the pilots tipped the plane sideways, twice, so I could get good photos! In the one collage you can see me sporting one of their hats and in the second I added one of the airphotos, it is over the remote Kelimotraka region I worked in, where people ran away from the car. It was a fabulous flight and great start to my holidays. The weather there was incredibly warm, a lazy comforting warm, occasionally stirred by a breeze. Morondava, as I stated, is a fishing town, so I vowed to eat only the fruits of the sea (since I eat abundant zebu in camp). I enjoyed shrimp, enormous prawns, fish (barracuda, shark, tuna), lobster and crab. Although I was not entirely pleased when served a whole crab, I thought it was rather creepy to break the (8!) legs off the body… I got myself a roomy bungalow directly on the beach. The interior was reminiscent of a cabin onboard a ship, all wood, floors, walls and furniture, and very clean. Four steps from the beach got me onto my porch and I sat there staring at the ocean, sipping punch coco or drinking straight from a freshly fallen coconut, and read many books. I would plan hours in advance whether or not to venture into town, to go to the bank or the market and when sufficiently pumped for the 30 minute walk, bag in hand containing a liter of water, my camera and a book, I would head off. The heat was intense, walking through thick white sand that covers the roads (actually, I doubt there even is pavement under all that sand), stopping at a roadside stand for a drink and shade, thinking why I wasn’t back at my porch, I acquired that slow walking gait of the locals. Upon finally reaching the destination I would frequently find the establishment to be closed! Most locals take long naps between 11 and 3:30…sigh... I would then have to make my way back, thirsty, sweaty and hot, I pace myself, pausing under an awning to read a chapter from my book, resuming my tortuous walk until I see the sign for my hotel again and ease myself back onto the porch. “Mora Mora”, they say here, meaning “take it easy” or “relax”. It is truly amazing how I can endure the same heat for hours and hours in the field, but when on holidays I tire within minutes. Must be a state of mind. I once took a boat ride out to Belo sur Mer, a very small village 70 km south of Morondava, where I stayed in a cabin that looked like something Robinson Crusoe had built. The seaside is rich with coral and life, the water warm as a hot tub and plentiful shells to be found along the waters’ edge. A gorgeous and incredibly romantic place. New years was an ordeal for me, considering the lack of affection that Malagasy people show for each other (I have never seen anyone kiss or even hold hands in public), many local men were incredibly eager to come and wish me a happy new years, which entails three kisses (thanks to the French!) Even the hotel manager ventured to my porch, only to receive a courteous handshake as I arched my body back from the oncoming assault ;) I also revisited the fabulous baobab trees again, the picture shows the “Baobabs in love”, two intertwining trees, very impressive, and another photo shows a chameleon that is being held up by some local children, with the famous “Baobab Alley” in the background. After an excellent break I was ready to head back to camp. The rainy season has transformed the rolling dry grassy hills into lush green meadows. Contrasting these are the soothing rich terracotta colors of the earth and brick houses. In fact, if I was asked to describe Madagascar I could do it in two words; green and red. I’ll try to get some good pictures of the landscape for next time. The mangoes have come and gone and although we have cleared the grounds as much as possible of the last few rotting fruits, we are constantly surrounded by the buzzing of very bold flies. They have no fear or shame to land directly on my face; my nose, eyes and lips! I have started to get used to them and they are now only a minor bother, once in a while, particularly when the buzzing has stopped (meaning that they have all successfully landed on me) I shake my body to start the buzzing once again. At times there are hundreds of them on the kitchen counter, but I refuse to use Baygon or any other chemicals to kill them, so we’ll simply have to endure them for the time being. The rainstorms have been intense, flooding the roads and the strong winds have destroyed part of my little house under the banana trees, so I’ll have to get it reinforced with wood soon. And my little skink Bert has disappeared….Many other large insects and some spiders, although no Nephilias, yet…thankfully... In the afternoons, when the day is at its hottest, the cycads chirp in a constant unison, at times incredibly loud! They are strange insects, in looks and sound, but you rarely see them, as they stay to the trees and are well camouflaged. And speaking of camouflage, I have a new little friend, a small brown chameleon, and I’ve named him Max. He lives in one of our young male papaya trees (these bear the very fragrant flowers for pollination, no fruit) and he is adorable! It’s so nice to witness a creature that is slow, I can stare at him for long minutes and watch his skin take on different colours and patterns. He has one damaged eye, so I can actually sneak up on him and he won’t notice me until he slowly turns his head around and stares at me with his one good eye ;) Continue reading... Of Snorkeling and the Barracuda, Cape Town and Mauritius 2006
People of the Thorns, Androy, Southern Madagascar, 2006
Emeralds and a King, Mananjary Region, Eastern Madagascar, 2006
Kalalau Trail, Kauai, Hawaii, 2007
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